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Collector Guide Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Movements of the 20th Century – A Complete Catalog of Serially-Produced Complete Calendars With and Without Moonphase

Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Calender Complete Moonphase Movements

This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced triple-calendar wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. Triple Calendar With and Without Moonphase A classic complication, the triple calendar – also… Read more »

Insight The Watch Collector / Enthusiast Dichotomy & Its Discontents – The Phenomenology of Watches as Spiritual Practice

Our Current Paradigm Is Divisive Within the watch community we hear quite a lot about the distinction between watch enthusiasts and collectors. We consider enthusiasts to be on a lower order than collectors. Enthusiasts may own dozens of watches, but they are dilettantes who lack the focus, dedication and connoisseurship that characterize the collector. Collectors… Read more »

Hands-On Seiko Shogun Titanium Dive Watch SPB191 SBCD131

The Skinny Extending Seiko’s Heritage (Not Regurgitating It) I’m done with Seiko’s reissued dive watches. They’re never just like the original, the large Prospex logo announces that fact, and I’ve just grown bored with the whole enterprise. Seiko was always a forward-looking brand, and I think advanced design and technology celebrates Seiko’s heritage more than… Read more »

Collector Guide Vacheron Constantin Time-Only Movements of the 20th Century – A Complete Catalog of Serially-Produced Large-Format Round Calibers

This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced, large-format, round, time-only wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. The Era of Serial Production With Jaeger-LeCoultre Well into the 1920s, Vacheron… Read more »

Hands-On Haven Watch Co. Chilluminati 37.5mm Hand-Wound Chronograph

The Skinny 37.5mm x 13mm 50m water resistance Sellita SW510 M BH a hand-wound chronograph movement $1999 Midwestern Avant Gardism There aren’t many new independent watch brands that truly take advantage of their freedom to design creatively. Among those I include Brew Watches in New York, Ianos in Greece, Sō Labs in Chicago, and now… Read more »

Hands-On Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

The Skinny 39mm Titanium case and bracelet 100m water resistance Oris in-house calbire 400 3900 CHF (~$4,170) A New Category for Oris With the ProPilot X Calibre 400, Oris has entered the crowded and competitive arena of the Swiss luxury sports watch. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Patek Philippe… Read more »

Hands-On Zenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »

Hands-On Jean Rousseau Custom Alligator Strap

Is there any sense in spending $375 on a watch strap? My Vacheron Constantin ref. 99932-P has an atypical lug-span of 17.62mm, and those lugs are spindly little protrusions that require an exact fit. This Vacheron is also a fine platinum dress watch, so a fine alligator strap was certainly in order. Jean Rousseau was… Read more »