This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced triple-calendar wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. Triple Calendar With and Without Moonphase A classic complication, the triple calendar – also… Read more »
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Hands-On Isofrane & Tropic Rubber Watch Straps – The Italian Non-Silicon Vulcanized Compound Perfect for Dive Watches
What everyone wants in a rubber strap may not be identical, but if you’re looking for the best dive watch straps, the Isofrane and Tropics are your best bet because the rubber compound and the smart heritage designs are unmatched.
Insight The Watch Collector / Enthusiast Dichotomy & Its Discontents – The Phenomenology of Watches as Spiritual Practice
Our Current Paradigm Is Divisive Within the watch community we hear quite a lot about the distinction between watch enthusiasts and collectors. We consider enthusiasts to be on a lower order than collectors. Enthusiasts may own dozens of watches, but they are dilettantes who lack the focus, dedication and connoisseurship that characterize the collector. Collectors… Read more »
Hands-On Seiko Shogun Titanium Dive Watch SPB191 SBCD131
The Skinny Extending Seiko’s Heritage (Not Regurgitating It) I’m done with Seiko’s reissued dive watches. They’re never just like the original, the large Prospex logo announces that fact, and I’ve just grown bored with the whole enterprise. Seiko was always a forward-looking brand, and I think advanced design and technology celebrates Seiko’s heritage more than… Read more »
Collector Guide Vacheron Constantin Time-Only Movements of the 20th Century – A Complete Catalog of Serially-Produced Large-Format Round Calibers
This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced, large-format, round, time-only wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. The Era of Serial Production With Jaeger-LeCoultre Well into the 1920s, Vacheron… Read more »
Hands-On Haven Watch Co. Chilluminati 37.5mm Hand-Wound Chronograph
The Skinny 37.5mm x 13mm 50m water resistance Sellita SW510 M BH a hand-wound chronograph movement $1999 Midwestern Avant Gardism There aren’t many new independent watch brands that truly take advantage of their freedom to design creatively. Among those I include Brew Watches in New York, Ianos in Greece, Sō Labs in Chicago, and now… Read more »
Hands-On Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
The Skinny 39mm Titanium case and bracelet 100m water resistance Oris in-house calbire 400 3900 CHF (~$4,170) A New Category for Oris With the ProPilot X Calibre 400, Oris has entered the crowded and competitive arena of the Swiss luxury sports watch. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Patek Philippe… Read more »
Hands-On Praesidus 38mm Mechanical Type A11 – A Very Vibey WWII-Era Field Watch Tribute
The Skinny 38mm 12.8mm Seiko NH35 automatic mechanical movement 5atm water resistance $249 on Kickstarter Military Watches Vs. War Narratives With the Type A11 Field Watch series, Praesidus offers a tribute to the A11 mil-spec units that the US Military contracted from Bulova, Waltham, and Elgin starting in 1942. This is a Nazi-killer’s watch, not… Read more »
Hands-On Zenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »
Hands-On Jean Rousseau Custom Alligator Strap
Is there any sense in spending $375 on a watch strap? My Vacheron Constantin ref. 99932-P has an atypical lug-span of 17.62mm, and those lugs are spindly little protrusions that require an exact fit. This Vacheron is also a fine platinum dress watch, so a fine alligator strap was certainly in order. Jean Rousseau was… Read more »