Like many watches from Patek Philippe (and countless other brands), the original models from the 20th century are just so much mellower and understated than their modern counterparts, but I didn’t expect to have such a strong feeling of understatement and class from a Nautilus – perhaps because the trends have elevated this model to a thing of bling. What this tells me is that even during the disco years, Patek was driven by the same understatement that gave us the Calatrava and countless other gorgeous studies in classic design over the 20th century.
Category: Patek Philippe
Hands-On – Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G
The 5226G draws on current trends that look to the past (e.g. aged lume, military minimalism) as a way to be current (big trend there) while also paying tribute to its own storied legacy (e.g. the Calatrava Ref 96 Nightwatchman, which sold for 322,000CHF in 2016) with an irreverent tendency toward pastiche – meaning, throwing various elements together – (e.g. numerals and hands from the wonderful 5172G chronograph and the even more wonderful 5320G perpetual calendar, hobnailing from the 6119X Calatravas and other older references, and a lug style reminiscent of the 3448 perpetual calendar, especially in white gold).
Insight – The Argument for Cheap Tool Watches and Expensive Dress Watches
Despite believing the subjective experience of watches is ultimately all we have, I am not one of those egalitarian folks who believes that because someone enjoys a watch it thus belongs in this world. Watch critics like that really aren’t critics at all. They practice what a colleague recently called reportage, as if by using the French word sucking up to advertisers for a living was somehow sophisticated.
Podcast Conversations E18 – Walt Odets On His Five Favorite Watches
Walt Odets is legendary in the world of watch writing, having penned some of the most impactful watch criticism back before watch brands held sway over publications. In Walt’s second podcast with Allen, the two discuss Walt’s five personal favorite watches from his own collection. And they are stunners.
Hands-On Omega 39mm Constellation with Integrated Bracelet in Solid Yellow Gold (Ref. 188.8.131.52.02.0022)
The Skinny 39mm Solid yellow gold case and bracelet Caliber 8801 METAS-certified Co-axial auto-winding movement with date Precision: -2/+2 secs/day from factory Year of release: 2020 Reference: 184.108.40.206.02.002 $29,800 Hanging Tough with the Big Three Amidst the integrated-bracelet-watch renaissance of the 2020s, the 39mm solid yellow gold Omega Constellation contends with heavy-hitting legends from The… Read more »
Collector Guide Why Are Vintage Vacheron Constantin Dress Watches Undervalued?
Why Are Vintage Vacheron Constantin Dress Watches Undervalued? Because Vacheron Constantin never had a smash hit dress watch. But why didn’t Vacheron Constantin have a hit, and why do so many collectors focus on hit watches? Fewer Hits Than The Grateful Dead Consider early wrist watch icons like the Cartier Tank or the Patek Philippe Calatrava,… Read more »
Hands-On Zenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »
Owner Review Patek Philippe World Time 5231J and The Law of Attraction
The Skinny Diameter: 38.5MM Thickness: 10.23MM Movement: Caliber 240 HU Water Resistance: 30M Price: 65,000 CHF Apophenia or The Law of Attraction? In 1958, a psychiatrist by the name of Klaus Conrad defined Apophenia as the human propensity to seek patterns in random information. Seeking patterns is the core skill of human intellect, but we… Read more »
Insight What Exactly Is A Calatrava? – Patek Philippe’s Bauhaus Watch Spawned an Horological Genre
In 1932 Patek Philippe released the very simple, unadorned Calatrava wrist watch. Until the early 21st century, the word Calatrava only referred to that specific model from that specific brand. Today, however, you will find that journalists, chatty enthusiasts and especially vintage watch dealers use Calatrava to indicate almost any time-only or time-and-date dress watch… Read more »