Category: Uncategorized

Hands-OnTudor Black Bay GMT S&G – A Tribute to the Rolex Rootbeer GMT Master of the 1960s

The Skinny 41mm x 14.6mm Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5652 GMT, 70-hour power reserve, COSC certification Steel and Gold 200m water resistance Release year: 2022 $4300 on straps, $5500 with bracelet Imitating Its Way to Uniqueness It can be difficult to intellectually separate Tudor from Rolex. Rolex owns Tudor, their mutual technologies are well known, and the… Read more »

Collector GuideVacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Movements of the 20th Century – A Complete Catalog of Serially-Produced Complete Calendars With and Without Moonphase

Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Calender Complete Moonphase Movements

This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced triple-calendar wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. Triple Calendar With and Without Moonphase A classic complication, the triple calendar – also… Read more »

InsightThe Watch Collector / Enthusiast Dichotomy & Its Discontents – The Phenomenology of Watches as Spiritual Practice

Our Current Paradigm Is Divisive Within the watch community we hear quite a lot about the distinction between watch enthusiasts and collectors. We consider enthusiasts to be on a lower order than collectors. Enthusiasts may own dozens of watches, but they are dilettantes who lack the focus, dedication and connoisseurship that characterize the collector. Collectors… Read more »

Hands-OnSeiko Shogun Titanium Dive Watch SPB191 SBCD131

The Skinny 43.5mm x13.3mm 200m Water Resistance 6R35 Autowinding Movement with Date Precision: +8sec/day, 0.0ms beat error (learn to read Timegraphs) Released in 2020 $1399 MSRP (often around $1200 at point of sale) Extending Seiko’s Heritage (Not Regurgitating It) I’m done with Seiko’s reissued dive watches. They’re never just like the original, the large Prospex… Read more »

Collector GuideVacheron Constantin Time-Only Movements of the 20th Century – A Complete Catalog of Serially-Produced Large-Format Round Calibers

This guide is a one-stop reference for Vacheron Constantin’s serially-produced, large-format, round, time-only wristwatch movements of the 20th century. As such, this guide should help the collector of vintage Vacheron Constantin dress watches which were, to use the era’s lingo, intended for gentlemen. The Era of Serial Production With Jaeger-LeCoultre Well into the 1920s, Vacheron… Read more »

Hands-OnHaven Watch Co. Chilluminati 37.5mm Hand-Wound Chronograph

The Skinny 37.5mm x 13mm 50m water resistance Sellita SW510 M BH a hand-wound chronograph movement $1999 Midwestern Avant Gardism There aren’t many new independent watch brands that truly take advantage of their freedom to design creatively. Among those I include Brew Watches in New York, Ianos in Greece, Sō Labs in Chicago, and now… Read more »

Hands-OnOris ProPilot X Calibre 400

The Skinny 39mm Titanium case and bracelet 100m water resistance Oris in-house calbire 400 3900 CHF (~$4,170) A New Category for Oris With the ProPilot X Calibre 400, Oris has entered the crowded and competitive arena of the Swiss luxury sports watch. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Patek Philippe… Read more »

Hands-OnZenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »