In 1932 Patek Philippe released the very simple, unadorned Calatrava wrist watch. Until the early 21st century, the word Calatrava only referred to that specific model from that specific brand. Today, however, you will find that journalists, chatty enthusiasts and especially vintage watch dealers use Calatrava to indicate almost any time-only or time-and-date dress watch… Read more »
I collect Rolex and Speedmasters. I aim to stay within the classics while also looking for the nuanced differentiator within that segment. I’ve had plenty of prior experience with Oris. Oris has finally arrived in my lane with the Divers Sixty-Five Glow.
In this second installment of the ‘How Watches Work’ series, David joins Allen and leads him through the gears that make your mechanical watches work, generally known as “the going train.” By the end they’ve imagined complications that track time on Mercury, Jupiter and Mars The going train is the main set, or train, of… Read more »
Technical Terms Used in this Article Balance – The wheel attached to the hairspring that oscillates back and forth as part of the escapement and is responsible for the accuracy of the watch’s time-keeping. Cannon Pinion – A gear that fits tightly over the center wheel/second wheel axle to transmit power from the movement side… Read more »
The Skinny Size: 34 x 41.5 x 10.7mm Case Material: Stainless Steel Movement: 9F61 In-house, Quartz Water Resistance: “Splash” Strap: Leather, 18mm Price: $3,300 I appreciate the craftsmanship and value of Japanese luxury watch manufacturer Grand Seiko. However, the nearest Grand Seiko retailer is two hours away. That makes it hard to connect with the… Read more »
The Skinny 42.3 mm Stainless steel case and bracelet 120m water resistance Movement – manually wound Calibre HMC-812 with perpetual calendar functions and 168 hours of power reserve Price – $54,900 PerpCals, Generally Speaking For many watch collectors, a perpetual calendar is a final destination. I know this personally, but also ethnographically as I have… Read more »
Allen explores his new directions for his own budding collection of Vacheron Constantin watches, centering on a near disaster of a purchase due to his unbridled impetuousness. Two friends saved him from repeating past mistakes. Related Articles
The Skinny Movement: Seiko VK63, meacquartz Dimensions: Ø 40mm, lug-to-lug 48mm, thickness 13.5mm Lug Width: 20mm Water Resistance: 50m Strap: 1 perforated leather & 1 rubber Price: $295 I took note of the Roue watch company when it launched in 2017 and made a mental note to check out the watches more closely sometime in… Read more »
In the first of a new ongoing series of articles, we go ‘beneath’ the dial to follow the restoration of a particular watch, which today is a 1968 LeGant skin diver. Technical Terms Used in This Article Amplitude – How far the balance wheel is swinging back and forth and a good indicator of movement… Read more »
The Skinny Diameter: 37mmThickness: 10mmMovement: Calibre 3132 In-house automaticWater Resistance: 50 MPrice: $118,700 Small But Mighty I have always looked at the watches in my collection as snapshots of different periods of my life, not to mark any special occasion, but rather as highlights of my impulsive personality. You’d expect to find evidence of purchase… Read more »