Category: STRUCTURAL – Full Width Article Image

Hands-On Zenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »

Podcast How Watches Work E4 – Servicing Mechanical Movements

Watch In Need of Service

Our fourth ‘How Watches Work’ podcast is on watch servicing – what it entails and why it is needed. Allen is gunning for vintage watch dealers that advertise their wares as ‘freshly serviced’ while David explains the how to know when watch needs service and what to expect. Watch service is a deep subject and… Read more »

Owner Review Patek Philippe World Time 5231J and The Law of Attraction

The Skinny Diameter: 38.5MM Thickness: 10.23MM  Movement: Caliber 240 HU Water Resistance:  30M  Price: 65,000 CHF Apophenia or The Law of Attraction?  In 1958, a psychiatrist by the name of Klaus Conrad defined Apophenia as the human propensity to seek patterns in random information. Seeking patterns is the core skill of human intellect, but we… Read more »

Insight Why the 2022 King Seiko Relaunch was a Misstep

King Seiko is Back! So Seiko finally relaunched the King Seiko brand last month after a 46-year absence. With hindsight, last year’s 140-year commemorative SJE083 King Seiko limited release now seems to have been Seiko testing the public’s reaction to a renewed King Seiko brand. As a huge fan and avid collector of vintage King… Read more »

Podcast How Watches Work E3 – Movements As Torque Managers

Allen and David sit down in the third installment of the ‘How Watches Work’ series to discuss the subject of torque, what it is and why it is central to the design and operation of any watch, be it quartz or mechanical, simple or complicated. What Is Torque? What is torque? At its simplest, torque… Read more »

Hands-On Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Mega-Review

The Skinny What Is The Tudor Black Bay 58? Tudor’s foray into dive watches began in 1954 when the Rolex subsidiary produced a lower-cost version of the Rolex Submariner, unsurprisingly called the Tudor Submariner. In 1999 Tudor discontinued its Submariner, then brought back their divers in 2012 with the smash hit 41mm Black Bay. In… Read more »

Hands-On Jean Rousseau Custom Alligator Strap

Is there any sense in spending $375 on a watch strap? My Vacheron Constantin ref. 99932-P has an atypical lug-span of 17.62mm, and those lugs are spindly little protrusions that require an exact fit. This Vacheron is also a fine platinum dress watch, so a fine alligator strap was certainly in order. Jean Rousseau was… Read more »

Book Review 100+ No BS Watch Tips

The short version of this review is simply: buy this book if you are a watch enthusiast and have not already read it. Written by a watchmaker and aimed primarily for others working in the watch industry, there is so much useful and relevant information here for anyone interested in the watch hobby, that this… Read more »

Collector Guide The Short-Lived Seiko Liner

In 1960, Seiko’s Suwa factory launched a brand of luxury dress watches known as the Liner. The Liner range was to fit just below the newly launched Grand Seiko range, providing much of the style and luxury without the high precision of the Chronometer-rated Grand Seiko model. However, by 1964, the brand was no more,… Read more »