Category: STRUCTURAL – Top Story

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Hands-On – Bremont Fury 40mm Pilot’s Watch

Bremont Fury 40mm Pilot's Watch

The movements in the Fury models I tested ran well within COSC specifications (-4 to +6 sec/day). Bremont tests in-house using its own H1 chronometer protocols, which differ from COSC in that the movements are tested inside the watch they’ll ship in. This is conceivably a better standard, as the actual context of the movement is being tested as well, not to mention there’s no need for regulation after installation into the case as there is with COSC. The crown and setting of the watch felt as good as you would hope for in the price point. This is definitely a quality timepiece.

Hands-On – 1978 Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3700-01A – One Owner, Unpolished

Patek Nautilus ref. 3700-01A 1978

Like many watches from Patek Philippe (and countless other brands), the original models from the 20th century are just so much mellower and understated than their modern counterparts, but I didn’t expect to have such a strong feeling of understatement and class from a Nautilus – perhaps because the trends have elevated this model to a thing of bling. What this tells me is that even during the disco years, Patek was driven by the same understatement that gave us the Calatrava and countless other gorgeous studies in classic design over the 20th century.

Hands-On – Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G

Patek Philippe 5526G Calatrava

The 5226G draws on current trends that look to the past (e.g. aged lume, military minimalism) as a way to be current (big trend there) while also paying tribute to its own storied legacy (e.g. the Calatrava Ref 96 Nightwatchman, which sold for 322,000CHF in 2016) with an irreverent tendency toward pastiche – meaning, throwing various elements together – (e.g. numerals and hands from the wonderful 5172G chronograph and the even more wonderful 5320G perpetual calendar, hobnailing from the 6119X Calatravas and other older references, and a lug style reminiscent of the 3448 perpetual calendar, especially in white gold).

Curating the Collection – A Rolex Oyster Date Reference 6494 Captures My Heart

Rolex 6494 Bubbleback

The Rolex Oysterdate 6494 comes in a 34mm Oyster case which is 11mm thick with a modest lug-to-lug measurement of 43mm. The lugs are 19mm across. The 6494 came with a variety of dials, but most were variations on white paint, black lacquer, or honeycomb engraved models also in white or cream. All Rolex 6494s sport a roulette date wheel: black for odd numbers and red for the evens. Hands are dauphine with a blued second hand.

Hands-On – Hemel x Mathey-Tissot TypeXX Pilot’s Chronograph

Hemel MaseyTissot TypeXX 2022-16

When I learned of Hemel Watches collaborating with Mathey-Tissot to produce a small run of TypeXX chronographs, I was greatly interested. This collaboration felt genuine to me because Hemel had long based much of its catalog on the historically significant Type20 and TypeXX chronographs, which were originally French mil-spec units for pilots. 

Insight – The Argument for Cheap Tool Watches and Expensive Dress Watches

Vacheron Constantin Tradionelle Triple Calendar Moonphase

Despite believing the subjective experience of watches is ultimately all we have, I am not one of those egalitarian folks who believes that because someone enjoys a watch it thus belongs in this world. Watch critics like that really aren’t critics at all. They practice what a colleague recently called reportage, as if by using the French word sucking up to advertisers for a living was somehow sophisticated.

Hands-On – Yema Superman 500 GMT 39mm

Yema is a watch brand that grows on me a little more with every new release. Its designs range from the futuristic LED Kavinsky to the vintage-inspired Navygraph Marine Nationale. Yema’s designs are thoughtfully familiar while being unapologetically French. Yema has reached a point with enough unique design language that it’s unfair to classify the brand as a wishful homage. The latest iteration of Yems’a Superman 500 GMT is a welcome update to its catalog. 

Podcast Conversations E18 – Walt Odets On His Five Favorite Watches

Walt Odets Five Favorite Watches

Walt Odets is legendary in the world of watch writing, having penned some of the most impactful watch criticism back before watch brands held sway over publications. In Walt’s second podcast with Allen, the two discuss Walt’s five personal favorite watches from his own collection. And they are stunners.