Category: STRUCTURAL – Top Story

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Hands-On Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

The Skinny 39mm Titanium case and bracelet 100m water resistance Oris in-house calbire 400 3900 CHF (~$4,170) A New Category for Oris With the ProPilot X Calibre 400, Oris has entered the crowded and competitive arena of the Swiss luxury sports watch. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, and the Patek Philippe… Read more »

Collector Guide Why Are Vintage Vacheron Constantin Dress Watches Undervalued?

Vacheron Constantin Reference 4217

Why Are Vintage Vacheron Constantin Dress Watches Undervalued? Because Vacheron Constantin never had a smash hit dress watch. But why didn’t Vacheron Constantin have a hit, and why do so many collectors focus on hit watches? Fewer Hits Than The Grateful Dead Consider early wrist watch icons like the Cartier Tank or the Patek Philippe Calatrava,… Read more »

Hands-On Yema Kavinsky… C’est Très Choutte

The Skinny Dimensions: 35.5 x 42 x 10mm Material: 316L Stainless Steel (Black PVD an option) Water Resistance: 5 ATM / 50 m Strap: 316L Stainless Steel Bracelet Price: €195 The Magic of Glowing Red Digits I don’t wear digital watches. I don’t even own a digital watch. I think I did have a silver… Read more »

Hands-On Seiko Speedtimer SSC819P1 – A Disappointing Chronograph

The Skinny Reference: SSC819P1 Dimensions: 39 x 45.5 x 13.3mm Material: Stainless Steel Water Resistance: 100m Movement: V192 Strap: Steel Bracelet  Price: $675 USD Seiko, like many other watch brands recently, has been busy releasing fresh takes on their classic, historical designs. I was excited to hear in 2021 that the Speedtimer branding was returning… Read more »

Hands-On Zenith Defy Revival A3642, Predecessor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Skinny 37mm In-house Elite 670 auto winding movement $7000 Three Years Before The Royal Oak I asked to review this watch because it looked different and funky. That was the point of the original A3642 released in 1969, purportedly as a rally cry against the ascendant, yet aesthetically uninspired, electronic quartz watches wreaking havoc… Read more »

Owner Review Patek Philippe World Time 5231J and The Law of Attraction

The Skinny Diameter: 38.5MM Thickness: 10.23MM  Movement: Caliber 240 HU Water Resistance:  30M  Price: 65,000 CHF Apophenia or The Law of Attraction?  In 1958, a psychiatrist by the name of Klaus Conrad defined Apophenia as the human propensity to seek patterns in random information. Seeking patterns is the core skill of human intellect, but we… Read more »

Podcast How Watches Work E3 – Movements As Torque Managers

Allen and David sit down in the third installment of the ‘How Watches Work’ series to discuss the subject of torque, what it is and why it is central to the design and operation of any watch, be it quartz or mechanical, simple or complicated. What Is Torque? What is torque? At its simplest, torque… Read more »

Hands-On Jean Rousseau Custom Alligator Strap

Is there any sense in spending $375 on a watch strap? My Vacheron Constantin ref. 99932-P has an atypical lug-span of 17.62mm, and those lugs are spindly little protrusions that require an exact fit. This Vacheron is also a fine platinum dress watch, so a fine alligator strap was certainly in order. Jean Rousseau was… Read more »